Footprint 24: Inspiration 足迹24: 灵感

(中文翻译在英文正文之后)

We are walking at the beginning of an ancient path south of the city of Shaoxing. From here, important postal and trade routes used to run to Taizhou and Wenzhou and further to the coast. The paths were not only used by traders and couriers, but also by poets, painters, and other artists for inspiration. At some point, recreational side paths and parallel paths were constructed especially for them. Thanks to the walking paths this wider region even became a birthplace of Chinese landscape painting.

I have walked parts of today’s route before, in different weather circumstances, with other walking partners. Along the path that partly dates from the Song Dynasty, we see bamboo forests for production. These were not yet there during the Song Dynasty. At the beginning of the path, basic recreational facilities have been built, including a toilet. Meals are sold at local residents’ homes. Zhejiang’s network of existing paths and new long-distance trails fits within the provincial strategy to revitalize neglected areas in a low-impact way. Grateful use is made of these forgotten historical connections.

In contrast to last time, we see few other walkers. Yesterday was the last day of a heavy typhoon that passed by, the third this season. The pavement is still wet. Water gushes along and partly over the path down the mountain. The peace and fresh air make us walk on.

We see a ceremonial resting place where incense is burned. A little further on is a recently completed new temple where I spoke to construction workers last time, there is no one there now. On national level it makes part of a pilgrimage route to Taoist and Buddhist sites. From this point we now take a different route. From villages in the valley, we hear fireworks: a traditional wedding. It is the weekend. Young people who live in the city to visit their parents or grandparents. There are some renovated buildings between older buildings, with the doors along the street usually open hospitably. Some residents sit in front of their doors and look curiously. In other homes, stewed sweet potatoes and other delicacies are offered for sale.

We walk past the village and climb up another mountain, over 500 meters high. The path becomes quiet again. We see more and more rainwater flowing down. The mountain is sweating. My walking partner is an experienced hiker who goes out almost every weekend. More and more water, the path is barely visible and slippery. We get off the path and come to a wide mud stream. We try to bridge the gap via loose boulders, in vain. Jumping does not seem to be an option. Going back means three hours extra. We take off our shoes and wade through the muddy water up to our knees. The contrast with Shanghai is great. You cannot get much closer to nature. We arrive at the next rest point where a local villager sells water, vegetables, and fruit. He gives us tangerines while laughingly saying that we are the first ones he sees today. On normal days, dozens of hikers pass by.

My clothes are covered in mud. The next day I will meet a group of experts who are mapping old trails. Luckily, I have a change of clothes with me.

我们从绍兴南部一条古道的起点开始徒步。这曾是一条重要的邮政和商贸路线通往台州、温州,甚至更远的海岸。这条古道不仅曾供商人和快递员使用,还为诗人、画家和其他艺术家提供灵感。

我之前曾在天气好的时候和徒步伙伴们走过这条古道的另外一段。这段线路可以追溯至宋代,沿路有很多用于生产的竹林。这些竹林在宋代并未存在。在古道的起点,已经修建起基本的休闲设施,包括厕所。当地居民的家里有可以销售饭菜。步道网络是浙江省绿色步道系统的一部分,符合省级振兴被忽视区域的低影响发展战略。

与上次不同,我们几乎没有遇到其他行人。昨天是台风季节的最后一天,已经是第三次台风。台风刚过去,路面依旧湿滑。水流沿路而下,部分已覆盖古道。宁静和新鲜的空气使我们继续前行。

我们看到一个用来烧香的休息点,稍远处是一个新建的寺庙,我上次曾和建筑工人交谈过,现在没有人。它是全国性朝圣路线的一部分,通向道教和佛教圣地。从这里我们选择了一条不同的路线。来自山谷村庄的鞭炮声响起:可能有传统的婚礼。今天是周末,年轻人从城市回家探望父母或祖父母。街上有一些翻新的建筑,老房子中间,门通常敞开着,热情地迎接过路人。一些居民坐在门前,好奇地打量着我们。有些人家有出售炖地瓜和别的美味小吃。

我们走过村庄,继续攀登500多米的山峰。古道再次变得寂静。我们看到越来越多的溪水沿路而下,似乎是山峦在“流汗”。我的徒步伙伴是一位经验丰富的登山者,几乎每个周末都外出。溪水愈来愈大,古道几乎看不见,且非常滑。我们离开古道,走到一条宽阔的泥流前。我们尝试通过松动的巨石来跨越,但效果不佳。跳跃似乎也不是一个可行的选择。回头意味着要多走3个小时。于是我们脱下鞋子,赤脚踩进膝盖深的泥水中。与上海的差别巨大,这里几乎让我们与大自然融为一体。我们到达下一个休息点,一个当地村民卖水、蔬菜和水果的地方。老板笑着递给我们柑橘,说我们是他今天见到的第一个客人。平时,成群的登山者都会经过这里。

我的衣服沾满了泥。第二天我会见到一群正在绘制古道路线的专家。幸好我带了干净的衣服。

Leave a comment